Corrosion Stopper Page 2 - Sail Magazine

Corrosion Stopper Page 2

If the green grounding cable on your boat’s AC inlet is connected to the DC ground as the American Boat and Yacht Council recommends, you may be asking for trouble.As soon as you plug into shorepower, you’re connecting the underwater metal on your boat—stainless steel propeller shaft, bronze prop and through-hulls, zinc anodes, aluminum saildrive—to the underwater metal on all the other
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4.int

I unscrew the inlet and remove the green grounding wire, which needs to be lengthened so that it can be hooked up to the “boat ground” terminal on the isolator

5.int

For the sake of neatness I very carefully slit the cable about 6 inches from the end with a sharp knife so that I can pull out the ground wire while leaving the sheath intact (inset). If you do this, make sure you don’t cut the insulation on the hot or neutral wires; if your blade is sharp enough it is easy to make a clean cut between the wires

6.int

I use a butt connector to extend the length of the ground wire so it will reach the “boat ground” terminal on the isolator. Because my extra length of green wire is 14 gauge as opposed to the 10 gauge of the original, I need to bulk it up before applying the heatshrink tubing. I do this by first slipping on a thinner piece of heatshrink, then shrinking the large size over it

7.int

I like to use a heat-shrink ring terminal; they are more expensive than standard terminals but save a bit of time

8.int

I insert one end of a new length of green wire into the shore power inlet

9.int

The other end goes to the “shore ground” terminal on the isolator

10.int

I’ve replaced the inlet and screwed the isolator to a bulkhead, using stainless steel washers on the screws as spacers to leave an air gap behind the isolator, which could get hot if there is a ground fault

RESOURCES

Marinco

ProMariner

Newmar

Sterling Power

Yandina

DEI

C-Power

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